The entrance to Gede Pangrango National Park is next to the entrance to Kebun Raya Cibodas. The park consists of the twin volcanoes Gunung Gede, 2.958 m, and Gunung Pangrango, 3.019 m. It is located in one of the wettest parts of West Java, the annual rainfall average ranges from 3.000 to 4.200 mm with a high relative humidity. While it can get down to 5° C on the high mountain peaks, the average temperature is about 18° C. December to March is the wettest time of the year, with rain almost every day, the dry season is between May and October. This is also the best time to climb the still volcanically active Gunung Gede. You need a permit which you can obtain in the office next to the entrance. The walk to the summit will take you through a wide variety of tropical forest ranging from sub mountain forest via mountain forest and finally sub alpine forest. The hike is about 10 km and will take at least 10 hours there and back. Many prefer to start at 2 AM to reach the top in the early morning. Then you can see as far as Jakarta to the north and Pelabuhanratu on the south coast.

HISTORY of GPNP
In 1980, the government decided to launch Indonesia's National Parks Programme by establishing five National Parks, the mountains of Gede-Pangrango were an obvious choice for inclusion. The early history of the area is little known, though the mountains feature in many sundanese legends. It seems that a trail existed from the ancient town of Cianjur to Bogor, via Cipanas. The lower mountain slopes were probably used for shifting cultivation in what was rough, remote terrain. The introduction of tea had a profound impact on area. Japanese varieties had been planted as far back as 1728, and plantations were laid out in Ciawi and Cikopo in 1835. Then, in 1878, Assam tea was grown with great success, and the economy and environment of the lower slopes changed forever.

The area's long history of research and conservation began as early as 1830 with establishment of small botanical garden near the Governor General's palace in Cipanas, later moved and enlarged to become the Cibodas Botanic Garden. In 1889, the forest between the Cibodas Botanic Gardens and the hot springs at Air panas was made into nature reserve. After 1919, a patchwork of small reserves developed. A major commitment was undertaken in 1978, when 14,000 ha, consisting of the two main peaks and extensive slopes, were gazetted as Gunung Gede Pangrango Nature Reserve.

Finally, in March 6th 1980, all the separate areas were combined, and Mount Gede Pangrango National Park was born. The National Park can justifiably claim to represent the best surviving montane habitat on Java. Over 1,000 species of higher/flowering plants have been than 200 species of orchid : about a third of all the orchid species found on Java. Birds excite particular interest, attracting ornithologists from all over the world; this is not surprising considering that more than half of Java's bird fauna can be seen here, including most of the "Javan endemics" (species exclusive to the island). Threatened or endangered mammals include the leopard, the Javan gibbon and the Javan leaf monkey.

HISTORY of ERUPTIONS
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Mt Gede's first documented eruption occurred in 1747/8. Activity was severe, and accounts describe two lava streams flowing from the Lanang crater. The eruption was atypical, as it gave rise to the only recorded lava flow in the last 250 years. It is probable that the 2-km track of lava responsible for the hot water springs of Air Panas dates back to this event. A part from a few minor events (1761, 1780 and 1832) the mountain "slept" for almost one hundred years. Then, at 3 am on the morning of 12 November 1840, a large, unexpected eruption awoke the surrounding villages with a thunderous noise, accompanied by severe earth tremors. A burning cloud of gas roared down the northwest slopes of the mountain, luckily stopping before it reached the Cibodas Botanic Gardens.

Some 24 minor eruptions have occurred spasmodically in the last 150 years: in 1852 the Kandang Badak guest house was destroyed by an expulsion of large stones; in 1886 a 50-cm layer of ash fell up to a distance of 500 m from the craters, killing most of the vegetation. The 1940/50s were marked by many small events. 1957 was the last sign of activity, but there is no room for complacency: the longer the period of inactivity, the greater the likelihood of a major eruption! << back to top

The FIRST CLIMBER
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Who made the first recorded climbs to the peaks of Gede-Pangrango? The ubiquitous Raffles visited in 1811 and in his role as Lieutenant Governor of Java organised the construction of a trail on the southeastern slopes of Mt Gede: the remains of a large track can still be seen. Reinwardt, founder of the Bogor (Buitenzorg) Botanic Gardens, set foot on the Gede summit in April 1819. However he credits an American, geologist/physician Thomas Horsfield, has having already climbed to the mountain, but the date is uncetain. Horsfield collected natural history specimens and carried out research on Java between 1802-1819. The first recorded climb from Cibodas was made by Blume in 1824. He ascended via Cibeureum, the hot springs of Air Panas and Kandang Badak (Rhinoceros-field), the route used by most climbers today.

The "first climbing" of Mt Pangrango is very controversial. The honour is usually given to the German, Junghun, who reached the small crater meadow in April 1839. However, many years before, in August 1821, Kuhl and van Hasselt, two young biologist working for The Netherlands Commission for Natural Sciences, had written letters describing how they had followed rhinoceros tracks to the summit. Junghun seriously doubted that they had actually climbed all the way to the top. Controversy arose because they failed to mention the Imperial Primrose (see picture). At that time this spectacular primula grew only in the Pangrango crater. On Java the plant is recorded only from a few high mountains, and would have been of considerable interest.

Teysmann, the then Director of the Gardens, supported the earlier claim. Unfortunately, Heinrich Kuhl and Johan van Hasselt could not be consulted, as both had died prematurely, in Buitenzorg - aged 24 and 26 respectively - of tropical diseases. The identify of the first people to stand on the peaks will never be known. They may have been Hindu worshipper belonging to the ancient Sunda kingdom of Pajajaran, or perhaps members of an even older society. Without a doubt, whoever they were they looked down from the summits a very long time ago: human remains found on Java date back over one and a half million years.

Surveying the grandeur and isolation of Gede and Pangrango, you will not be surprised to discover that these mountains are rich in history and legend. Such stories may well hold the key to our fascination with high places. At Cibeureum, there is a large rock in the Cikundul waterfall. By tradition this natural formation marks the spot where a holy man knelt and meditated so long and deep that he turned to stone. On the last day of the world, so the stories goes, he will revert to flesh and blood. In such stories natural and spiritual existence intertwine. << back to top

WILDLIFE
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Birds excite particular interest not surprising when you consider more than half of Java's bird fauna, including all but a couple of the island's twenty or so "endemics", can be seen here. The park's most famous bird is the Javan Hawk Eagle. Less spectacular in appearance is the crater swift let, a bird which likes to live dangerously as it has only ever been recorded from three active Javan volcanoes. Even the humble chestnut-belled part-ridge, frequently seen running across the paths in family groups, is endemic to the western half of the island.

Alas, the Javan tiger and the rhino roam no more, but a surprising array of mammals can still be found. The most dramatic being the leopard. Leopards take an array of food including mousedeer, barking deer, wild pig and monkeys and will even have a go at Javan porcupines and pangolins. The other cat to occur is the leopard cat. It looks gentle enough but is actually more aggressive than its larger namesake. Keeping to the remote area of the peaks is the Asian wild dog. Listed by IUCN (International Union for the Conservation of Nature) also vulnerable it is perhaps the rarest of the park's larger predators.

Out of the Gede Pangrango's four species of primate three are endemic to Indonesia. The rather scruffy ebony leaf monkey fortunately is still quite common. The Javan leaf monkey, by contrast, is a real aristocrat: gray on its back, with white underside and possessing a very slender looking body and limbs.

As with the gibbon, this species is endemic to western half of Java. The park's most well known primate, the Javan Gibbon, has the dubious distinction of been the world's most endangered gibbon, of which around 100 live in the National Park.

Often the rich diversity of Gede Pangrango's smaller animals is overlooked. The park has a healthy population of small-clawed otters, considered by IUCN as "insufficiently know" but probably at risk. At least 19 species of frog have been recorded in the park ranging from a tiny brown species able to jump almost a meter, to several species of medium to large tree frog. << back to top

LEGENDS
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Eyang Suryakancana - Perhaps the most famous character in Sundanese mythology is Eyang Suryakancana. ("Eyang" means grandfather and is a title given to someone possessing spiritual power.) His father, known as Eyang Dalem Cikundul, was the first governor of Cianjur,
appointed in 1677. Eyang Dalem Cikundul was very handsome and married a beautiful woman, who bore him teo children: a boy, Suryakancana, and a girl, Dewi Sukaesih. People do not tell detailed stories about Eyang Suryakancana as much as believe in his perpetual presence. His spirit still dwells in the Alun-alun (square/meadow of) Suryakancana - just below the summit of Mt Gede.

Prabu Siliwangi - In the forest bordering Alun-Alun Suryakancana is a site claimed to be ancient grave of prabu (King) Siliwangi – in legend many of the rulers of the West Javan Kingdom of Pajajaran are known by this name. The king of this particular story was at war:
fighting either the Hindu kingdom of Majapahit to the east, or the newly-established Muslim Sultanate at Banten. After suffering defeat the king is said to have fled with his followers to Mt Gede. Climbers often report dreaming of a “kraton” or palace in the meadow and occasionally the thunder of spirithorses is heard. Confusion seems to exist, however, about whether the kraton and horses belong to Eyang Suryakancana or Prabu Siliwangi

Mbah Jalun - Sometimes fact merges into legend, as in the case of the famous leader, Mbah Jalun, a son of the King of Mataram. He led a long and oarduous campaign against the Dutch in the first half of the 19th century. After pursuing a rather nomadic lifestyles, he made his base in the Cianjur area. Stories tell of his trekking through the forest of Gede and Pangrango to avoid capture. On several tell of his trekking through caught and sentenced to death but escaped miraculously each time, seemingly by employing great mystic powers. Evantually he settled down on the southern slopes of mountains. Its is said that Mount Masigit, one of the smaller peaks in the park, derives its name from the belief that Mbah Jalun built a mosque there. According to local tradition the birth of a son prompted him to leave a permanent legacy for future generations, and so in 1817 he created a lake, Situ Gunung, on the southern slopes of the National Park – now a popular picnic spot. In old age Mbah Jalun was once more discovered by the authorities and again taken into captivity. Once more he escaped and made his way westwards, but a hard life had taken its toll and he died a few months later at the age of 71. He was buried at Kampung Baru, near Bogor, around 1840.

Caves and Stones - Several small, remote caves and named stones in the park are probably sites of ancient religious significance. Over the years these have become linked to the Suryakancana legend. Park staff receive special requests for permission to visit these sacred places. Pilgrims usually rest in Suryakancana Meadow, where they ceremonially wash in a small pool fed by a spring, close towhere the path from Gede summit descends into the meadow, before they commerce the journey to their chosen site.

Various reasons are given for such visits: occasionally people report that they have received a spiritual command or instruction, but usually visitors have a particular request that they wish to have fulfilled. Many requests are financial in nature, but some relate to very personal matters, suach the desire to marry or conceive a child. Several sites are considered to be good for kesehatan (health) and visitors frequently bathe in the freshwater springs for this reason. << back to top